ScenTree, la nouvelle encyclopédie des ingrédients de parfum.

Exploring the branches of scent

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Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS

CAS number :

141773-73-1

EINECS number :

415-490-5

FEMA number :

Data not available.

JECFA number :

Data not available.

FLAVIS number :

Data not available.

Volatility :

Base

Appearance :

Colorless liquid

Price Range :

€€€

Stability :

Stable in perfumes and in various functional bases.

Density :

0.94

Molecular formula :

C₁₇H₃₂O₃

Molecular Weight :

284.44 g/mol

Flash Point :

282°F (139°C)

Log P :

5.46

Fusion Point :

Data not available.

Boiling Point :

657°F (347°C)

Detection Threshold :

1.7 ng/L air

Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS

Year of discovery :

Discovered in 1990 by chemists Giersch and Schulte-Este.

Synthesis route :

Data not available.

Synthesis precursor :

Helvetolide® can be used to synthesize Romandolide®, which is more powerful. This synthesis consists in replacing the dimethyl groupement of the ether function of Helvetolide®, by a carbonyle function, forming an ester.

Isomerism :

Helvetolide® used in perfumery is a mix of two isomers, due to the presence of two asymmetric carbons inside the molecule. The first one is dextrorotatory Helvetolide® (+), less floral but more musky than the other isomer. This is why it is often preferred as the other isomers, and sometimes used alone, isolated from levorotatory Helvetolide® (-).

Natural availability :

Helvetolide® does not exist on a natural state. It can't be extracted from a plant.

Allergens :

This ingredient does not contain any allergen.

For more information on allergens used in perfumery, please consult our article about allergens

IFRA :

This ingredient is not restricted

Maximum usage according to the product category :
Ingredients containing
Ingredient Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Cat.1	Cat.2	Cat.3	Cat.4	Cat.5	Cat.6	Cat.7	Cat.8	Cat.9	Cat.10	Cat.11
0,16 %	0,2 %	0,83 %	2,5 %	1,31 %	3,93 %	0,42 %	2 %	5 %	2,5 %	Not restricted

Skin contact products	Non skin contact products
Leave on products	Rinse off products

List of natural ingredients containing the material presented here
Ingredient Name	Botanical Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration
Angelica root oil	Angelica archangelica L.	8015-64-3	1,6
Angelica seed oil	Angelica archangelica L.	8015-64-3	0,29
Galbanum gum	Ferula spp.	8023-91-4	0,01
Galbanum oil	Ferula spp.	8023-91-4	0,1
Galbanum resin	Ferula spp.	8023-91-4	0,1

Maximum usage according to the product category :
Ingredients containing
Ingredient Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Cat.1	Cat.2	Cat.3	Cat.4	Cat.5A	Cat.5B	Cat.5C	Cat.5D	Cat.6
0,42 %	0,13 %	2,5 %	2,4 %	0,6 %	0,6 %	0,6 %	0,2 %	1,4 %
Cat.7A	Cat.7B	Cat.8	Cat.9	Cat.10A	Cat.10B	Cat.11A	Cat.11B	Cat.12
4,8 %	4,8 %	0,2 %	4,6 %	4,6 %	17 %	0,2 %	0,2 %	Not restricted

List of natural ingredients containing the material presented here
Ingredient Name	Botanical Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration
Angelica root oil	Angelica archangelica L.	8015-64-3	1,6
Angelica seed oil	Angelica archangelica L.	8015-64-3	0,29
Galbanum gum	Ferula spp.	8023-91-4	0,01
Galbanum oil	Ferula spp.	8023-91-4	0,1
Galbanum resin	Ferula spp.	8023-91-4	0,1

To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
To find out the specificities of each category and the ingredients prohibited by IFRA, click article about l'IFRA
ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.

Uses in perfumery :

Helvetolide is used in all kinds of perfumes (but espacially in fine fragrance because of its price) to bring a heady pear note and an Ambrette Seeds Absolute base note. It can be used as a fixative, with no cheap sub-effect. It is basically used as Musk T®, but brings more volume and tenacity to the fragrance.

Other names :

2-[1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl)ethoxy]-2-methylpropyl propionate, herbactolide

Other comments :

Helvetolide® is the first acyclic musk ever used in perfumery. It participated to the opening of a new molecules category. After it, Romandolide®, Nebulone®, Edenolide® and Sylkolide® were synthesized.

Exploring the branches of scent

Year of discovery :

Discovered in 1990 by chemists Giersch and Schulte-Este.

Synthesis route :

Data not available.

Synthesis precursor :

Helvetolide® can be used to synthesize Romandolide®, which is more powerful. This synthesis consists in replacing the dimethyl groupement of the ether function of Helvetolide®, by a carbonyle function, forming an ester.

Isomerism :

Natural availability :

Helvetolide® does not exist on a natural state. It can't be extracted from a plant.

Allergens :

This ingredient does not contain any allergen.

Annexe I :

Restriction type :

RESTRICTION QRA

Cause of restriction :

SENSITIZATION

Amendment :

47

Comments :

Quantitative usage limits :

Annexe I :

Annexe I :

Restriction type :

Cause of restriction :

DERMAL SENSITIZATION AND SYSTEMIC TOXICITY

Amendment :

49

Comments :

Quantitative limit on the use :

Annexe I :