ScenTree, la nouvelle encyclopédie des ingrédients de parfum.

Exploring the branches of scent

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Volatility :

Heart/Base

Price Range :

€€€€€

Appearance :

Orange to red liquid

Major components :

Linolenic Acid (15-20%)
Linoleic Acid (≈9%)
Palmitic Acid (≈9%)
Beta-Ionone (≈8%)
Linalool Oxide (≈8%)
Oleic Acid (≈7%)
DihydroBeta-Ionone (≈6%)
Alpha-Ionone (≈6%)
para-Methoxy Phenylethyl Alcohol (≈2%)

CAS number :

68917-05-5

EINECS number :

92347-21-2

FEMA number :

3750

Stability :

Solubility issues in perfumes Stable oil in perfumes and in diverse functional bases

Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS

Botanical name :

Osmanthus fragrans

Botanical profile :

Osmanthus is the flower of a tree of the Oleaceae family, like the olive tree, and of the genus Osmanthus.

Geographic origin :

Originally from southeast China and the Himalayas, osmanthus is now widely grown in China (mainly on the edge of rice fields in the provinces of Chunking, Hsintu and Chengtu), Japan and Thailand

Extraction process :

Osmanthus is a tree that can measure 3 to 12 meters in height. It has the same look as an olive tree and is also part of his botanical family. The propagation of a crop can be done by sowing seeds as osmanthus grows berries rather quickly this way although the culture yield will be lower, or by an asexual production that requires a treatment of the plant beforehand.
To obtain a good crop yield, osmanthus should be grown at the north of a sub-tropical region, in a mountainous region, with a high sun exposure and on a very fertile soil. The flowers are picked by hand during the month of December in China. They must be picked during the day, as the flowers wilt quickly. Before the extraction, the flowers are immersed in brine to improve their preservation.
An extraction of the fresh flowers with hexane allows to collect a concrete after evaporating the solvent. The solvent is collected and recycled to extract other flowers, while the exhausted flowers are thrown away. Then, the concrete is diluted in alcohol and submitted to a glazing process at a temperature gradient of 140 °F to 32 °F in order to precipitate the waxes of the concrete. The absolute is obtained by filtration and evaporation of the alcohol.
The overall extraction yield is about 1.2%.
In China, about only 1 ton of concrete is produced each year, which explains the cost of this raw material.

Chemotypes :

The genus Osmanthus contains about 30 species.
Osmanthus fragrans is the only one used in perfumery, and contains two varieties: var. aurantiacus and var. thunbergii.
Other common species may, however, be mentioned:
Osmanthus americanus, grown in Virginia and Texas.
Osmanthus yunnanensis, native to the Yunnan province in China.
Osmanthus delavayi, native to the Chinese provinces of Guizhou and Sichuan.
Osmanthus heterophyllus, native to Japan and Taiwan.

Aromatherapy :

Informations provided below are taken from reference works in aromatherapy. They are given for information purposes only and can not constitute medical information, nor engage the responsibility of ScenTree.

Data not available.

Allergens :

Linalool - D-Limonene - Geraniol - Citronellol - Eugenol - Iso-Eugenol - Farnesol

For more information on allergens used in perfumery, please consult our article about allergens

IFRA :

This ingredient is not restricted

Restriction type :

Cause of restriction :

Amendment :

Comments :

Quantitative usage limits :

Cat.1	Cat.2	Cat.3	Cat.4	Cat.5	Cat.6	Cat.7	Cat.8	Cat.9	Cat.10	Cat.11

Skin contact products		Non skin contact products
Leave on products	Rinse off products	Non skin contact products

Annexe I :

Ingredients containing
Ingredient Name	Botanical Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Annexe I :

Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here They are :

List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient
Regulated ingredient name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration
Coumarin	91-64-5	0,02
Eugenol	97-53-0	0,07
Geraniol	106-24-1	1,2

Restriction type :

Cause of restriction :

Amendment :

Comments :

Quantitative limit on the use :

Cat.1	Cat.2	Cat.3	Cat.4	Cat.5A	Cat.5B	Cat.5C	Cat.5D	Cat.6

Cat.7A	Cat.7B	Cat.8	Cat.9	Cat.10A	Cat.10B	Cat.11A	Cat.11B	Cat.12

Annexe I : EN Ici nous avons un texte qui n'est pas en gras et qui est à la suite de Annexe I

Ingredients containing
Ingredient Name	Botanical Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Annexe I :

Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here They are :

List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient
Regulated ingredient name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration
Geraniol	106-24-1	1,2
Coumarin	91-64-5	0,02
Eugenol	97-53-0	0,07

To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
To find out the specificities of each category and the ingredients prohibited by IFRA, click article about l'IFRA
ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.

Uses in perfumery :

Adds a fruity-apricot and exotic note to women's perfumes.

Other comments :

The absolute is composed of many molecules but the ionones and the damascones give it its typical features.
As osmanthus is the only specie in the family of olive trees whose flowers are extracted in perfumery, it is often nicknamed ''fragrant olive ''.
Experts vision :
Drink of the cold in the winter, osmanthus is known to warm up the body. Chinese pharmacopeia uses the flower for respiratory diseases. It can facilitate expectorations (mixture of saliva and mucus) and their flow by the respiratory tract.
Associated with fermented (or dark) tea, “black tea” in China, osmanthus is used to prevent and cure duodenal ulcers and stomach aches. It is very suitable for seniors suffering from gastrointestinal disorders and cold winters. Osmanthus infusions help to whiten the skin, detoxify the body and hydrate intestines.
According to historical documents, osmanthus has been cultivated in China for more than 2500 years. Traces of culture under the Han dynasty (from 206 before J-C to 220 after J-C) still exist. During the Tang and Song dynasty, the culture of osmanthus was very common. Many poems have been written about this flower these years. Since then, Osmanthus has been largely used through art and ornamental culture.
Wu Gang (or Wu Kang), Taoist symbol in Chinese folklore, is known to have been exiled on the Moon by the Yan emperor to kill an “eternal” osmanthus. This order was actually a trap, and Wu was forced to keep hitting a self-curing tree with an axe for the rest of his life. The story of Wu Gang is often linked to mid-autumn festival “full moon party”. But the legend also tells that Wu Gang knew there wasn’t any osmanthus on Earth. Thus, he made osmanthus seed fly to the Earth. Since then, every mid-autumn festival hosts the warm and powerful perfume of osmanthus. As often in Chinese folklore, legends are changing through each dynasty. Other versions of this story exist and are giving diverse explanations. Symbol of wealth and good fortune, osmanthus is pronounced GUI. In some traditions in Guangxi, the bride wears osmanthus, to quickly have her first child. - Jeremy TAMEN, 03/04/2020