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Mousse d'arbre Absolue (N°Cas : 90028-67-4)

Volatility :

Heart/Base

Price Range :

€€€€

Appearance :

Green liquid

Major components :

Data not available.

CAS number :

90028-67-4

EINECS number :

289-860-8

FEMA number :

Data not available.

Stability :

Solubility issues in eau de toilette, due to the residual presence of waxes. Stable in eaux de toilette and various functional bases.

Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS

Botanical name :

Evernia furfuracea

Botanical profile :

Tree moss is a lichen of the Parmeliacae family, and of the genus Evernia

Geographic origin :

Originating from various countries, France, the Balkans and China are the three largest producers (in order) of tree moss.

Extraction process :

Tree moss grows at the base of various trees. It is extracted in the same way as oak moss absolute.
Maceration in cold or hot water for 2 to 3 days is necessary to soften the lichens before extraction. They are then crushed to better fill the still, and increase the extraction yield. The extraction is done by a mixture of cyclohexane and isopropanol, in three successive washings. This step extracts the lichen and allows, after filtration and evaporation of the solvent, to obtain the concrete of tree moss. The absolute is then obtained by washing the concrete with alcohol to remove the waxes, which are insoluble in alcohol. The yield on the transition from concrete to absolute is 80%, for an overall extraction yield of about 3.5% (compared to 1.5% for oak moss).
The extract obtained contains Chloratranol and Atranol, which are highly allergenic compounds. A rectification is made to reduce the presence of these compounds in the extract.

Chemotypes :

In perfumery, three types of lichen are used:
Evernia prunastri : Oak Moss Absolute
Evernia furfuracea : Tree Moss Absolute
Usnea longissima : Cedar Moss Absolute, which can be found in China and Tibet, but of a different botanical family.

Other species of the genus Evernia are also distinguished: Evernia divaricata, Evernia esorediosa and Evernia mesomorpha. These are not used in perfumery.

Aromatherapy :

Informations provided below are taken from reference works in aromatherapy. They are given for information purposes only and can not constitute medical information, nor engage the responsibility of ScenTree.

Data not available.

Allergens :

Treemoss Absolute is an allergenic ingredient alone

For more information on allergens used in perfumery, please consult our article about allergens

IFRA :

This ingredient is not restricted

Restriction type :

RESTRICTION QRA

Cause of restriction :

SENSITIZATION

Amendment :

43

Comments :

For Treemoss and Oakmoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products. To ensure that those remain below trace levels, the upper concentration levels have not been increased (compared its last publication in the Amendment 43 (2008)). In the presence of Oakmoss extracts, the level of Treemoss in the respective category has to be reduced accordingly, such that the total amount of both extracts does not exceed the maximum permitted level in each category as listed in the table above. If the same fragrance mixture is intended to be used in more than one IFRA Category, then the most restrictive limitation (based on foreseen use concentrations and maximum permitted level) will apply. Treemoss extracts shall not contain more than 0.8% of Dehydroabietic acid (DHA) as a marker of 2% of total resin acids. The concentration of DHA (about 40% of the total resin acids) in Treemoss can be measured with an High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) reverse phase - spectrofluorometry method. Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Treemoss extracts.

Quantitative usage limits :

Cat.1	Cat.2	Cat.3	Cat.4	Cat.5	Cat.6	Cat.7	Cat.8	Cat.9	Cat.10	Cat.11
0,02 %	0,03 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,5 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	Not restricted

Skin contact products		Non skin contact products
Leave on products	Rinse off products	Non skin contact products

Annexe I :

Ingredients containing
Ingredient Name	Botanical Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Annexe I :

Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here They are :

List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient
Regulated ingredient name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Restriction type :

RESTRICTION_SPECIFICATION

Cause of restriction :

DERMAL SENSITIZATION

Amendment :

49

Comments :

For Treemoss and Oakmoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products. To ensure that those remain below trace levels, the upper concentration levels have not been increased (compared its last publication in the Amendment 43 (2008)). In the presence of Oakmoss extracts, the level of Treemoss in the respective category has to be reduced accordingly, such that the total amount of both extracts does not exceed the maximum permitted level in each category as listed in the table above. If the same fragrance mixture is intended to be used in more than one IFRA Category, then the most restrictive limitation (based on foreseen use concentrations and maximum permitted level) will apply. Treemoss extracts shall not contain more than 0.8% of Dehydroabietic acid (DHA) as a marker of 2% of total resin acids. The concentration of DHA (about 40% of the total resin acids) in Treemoss can be measured with an High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) reverse phase - spectrofluorometry method. Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Treemoss extracts.

Quantitative limit on the use :

Cat.1	Cat.2	Cat.3	Cat.4	Cat.5A	Cat.5B	Cat.5C	Cat.5D	Cat.6
0,02 %	0,016 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,076 %	0,076 %	0,076 %	0,076 %	0,18 %
Cat.7A	Cat.7B	Cat.8	Cat.9	Cat.10A	Cat.10B	Cat.11A	Cat.11B	Cat.12
0,1 %	0,1 %	0,032 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	Not restricted

Annexe I : EN Ici nous avons un texte qui n'est pas en gras et qui est à la suite de Annexe I

Ingredients containing
Ingredient Name	Botanical Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Annexe I :

Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here They are :

List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient
Regulated ingredient name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
To find out the specificities of each category and the ingredients prohibited by IFRA, click article about l'IFRA
ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.

Uses in perfumery :

Used in undergrowth notes, in fruity notes and in fig reproductions, to bring a natural effect and a slightly animalic facet.

Other comments :

Lichens are a crossing between a fungus and an algae. Botanically, we talk about lichen rather than moss for the Evernia genus.
Tree and oak moss are both regulated in the same way by IFRA.
The use of moss extracts tends to be replaced by unregulated compositions or synthetic molecules, such as Evernyl®.