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Mousse de Chêne Absolue (N°Cas : 9000-50-4)

Volatility :

Base

Price Range :

€€€€

Appearance :

Brown paste

Major components :

Evernic Acid (≈3%)
Usnic Acid
Formic Acid
Small quantity of Vanillin
Small quantity of Eucalyptol

CAS number :

9000-50-4

EINECS number :

90028-68-5

FEMA number :

2795

Stability :

Solubility issues in perfumes Stable oil in perfumes and in diverse functional bases

Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS

Botanical name :

Evernia prunastri

Botanical profile :

Oak moss is the moss of a tree belonging to the Parmeliacae family and the genus Evernia.

Geographic origin :

Oak moss is grown mainly in Yugoslavia, Macedonia, Morocco and France, where it originates.

Extraction process :

The harvest is handmade in Yugoslavia for the most part. The mosses are piled in a truck specially used for the harvest and taken to the factory. The mosses are macerated in water at room temperature for one to three days, to moisten and soften the lichens, which are crushed afterwards. The extraction is done by three successive washes with a mixture of cyclohexane and isopropanol.
The concrete is obtained after removing the lichens and evaporating the extraction solvent. The absolute is obtained by extracting the concrete with alcohol. The concrete waxes are precipitated by a glazing with a temperature gradient from 140 °F to 32 °F.
The absolute yield is between 1.5 and 4%.
Part of the colour can be removed from the absolute by treatment with activated carbon, or almost completely by molecular distillation.

Chemotypes :

In perfumery, three types of lichen are used:
Evernia prunastri : Oak Moss Absolute
Evernia furfuracea : Tree Moss Absolute
Usnea longissima : Cedar Moss Absolute, which can be found in China and Tibet, but of a different botanical family.

Other species of the genus Evernia are also distinguished: Evernia divaricata, Evernia esorediosa and Evernia mesomorpha. These are not used in perfumery.

Aromatherapy :

Informations provided below are taken from reference works in aromatherapy. They are given for information purposes only and can not constitute medical information, nor engage the responsibility of ScenTree.

Because of its highly allergenic nature, oak moss is used very little in aromatherapy.

Allergens :

Oak Moss Absolute is an allergenic ingredient alone

For more information on allergens used in perfumery, please consult our article about allergens

IFRA :

This ingredient is not restricted

Restriction type :

SPECIFICATIONS

Cause of restriction :

Amendment :

Comments :

Oak moss extracts used in fragrance compounds must not contain added tree moss, which is a source of resin acids. Traces of resin acids may be carried over to commercial qualities of oak moss in the manufacturing process. These traces must not exceed 0.1% (1000ppm) dehydroabietic acid (DHA) in the extract. The concentration of resin acids in oak moss can be measured with an HPLC Reverse Phase - spectrofluorometry method. Further, levels of atranol and chloroatranol should each be below 100ppm in oak moss extracts.

Quantitative usage limits :

Cat.1	Cat.2	Cat.3	Cat.4	Cat.5	Cat.6	Cat.7	Cat.8	Cat.9	Cat.10	Cat.11

Skin contact products		Non skin contact products
Leave on products	Rinse off products	Non skin contact products

Annexe I :

Ingredients containing
Ingredient Name	Botanical Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Annexe I :

Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here They are :

List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient
Regulated ingredient name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Restriction type :

RESTRICTION_SPECIFICATION

Cause of restriction :

DERMAL SENSITIZATION

Amendment :

49

Comments :

For Oakmoss and Treemoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products. To ensure that those remain below trace levels, the upper concentration levels have not been increased (compared its last publication in the Amendment 43 (2008)). In the presence of Treemoss extracts, the level of Oakmoss in the respective category has to be reduced accordingly, such that the total amount of both extracts does not exceed the maximum permitted level in each category as listed in the table above. If the same fragrance mixture is intended to be used in more than one IFRA Category, then the most restrictive limitation (based on foreseen use concentrations and maximum permitted level) will apply. Oakmoss extracts must not contain added Treemoss, which is a source of resin acids. Traces of resin acids may be carried over to commercial qualities of Oakmoss in the manufacturing process. These traces must notexceed 0.1% (1000 ppm) of Dehydroabietic acid (DHA) in the extract. The concentration of resin acids in Oakmoss can be measured with an High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) Reverse Phase – Spectrofluorometry method. Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.

Quantitative limit on the use :

Cat.1	Cat.2	Cat.3	Cat.4	Cat.5A	Cat.5B	Cat.5C	Cat.5D	Cat.6
0,02 %	0,016 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,076 %	0,076 %	0,076 %	0,076 %	0,18 %
Cat.7A	Cat.7B	Cat.8	Cat.9	Cat.10A	Cat.10B	Cat.11A	Cat.11B	Cat.12
0,1 %	0,1 %	0,032 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	0,1 %	Not restricted

Annexe I : EN Ici nous avons un texte qui n'est pas en gras et qui est à la suite de Annexe I

Ingredients containing
Ingredient Name	Botanical Name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

Annexe I :

Some regulated synthetic ingredients are found in nature and in certain proportions in natural ingredients. This presence in nature has to be taken into account when calculating limits of use recommended by the IFRA. In case you do not know these concentrations, you can use the ones estimated by the IFRA. Here They are :

List of regulated compounds contained in this ingredient
Regulated ingredient name	CAS N°	Estimated Concentration

To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
To find out the specificities of each category and the ingredients prohibited by IFRA, click article about l'IFRA
ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.

Uses in perfumery :

Useful in fougere and chypre notes (with Bergamot EO, Cistus EO, Cistus Labdanum Absolute Green Patchouli EO and possibly Lavender EO) for a rich and warm addition.

Other comments :

Botanically, we talk about lichen rather than moss. Lichens result from a symbiosis between a mushroom and an algae.
We also differentiate tree mosses and cedar mosses.
The use of oak moss tends to be replaced by Evernyl® or Oak Moss Olifak base, as this raw material is strongly regulated by the IFRA.